Days 70-73: The Finale

Day 70: Thursday, March 12

Our final day of classes. Saying good-bye to ICO was definitely tear-jerking, but I am comforted in knowing that I will return someday.

That night my program had our final good-bye dinner at the beautiful Restaurante Catedral. My housemate and I were so excited about this semi-formal group event that we spent a good chunk of time prepping out hair, makeup, and outfits.

Speaking of hair, I got mine done in Oaxaca on this day! My ends were in need of some trimming, but I was afraid to let a hairstylist other than someone my mom suggested touch my hair. I was also worried that the hairstylists wouldn’t be used to dealing with hair as curly as mine. Most of the Oaxaquenos I met had very straight or nearly straight hair and were always so intrigued by my curls. (As usual I had to explain to dozens of people that, «no, I don’t want you to pet my head or run your hands throughout my hair without my permission.») But after about 15 minutes of interrogating my host mom, she finally convinced me to let Pedro trim my ends. She drove me to his salon, just a few blocks from her house, and Pedro and his assistant got to work. They washed and cut my hair, then convinced me to let him shape my hair as well. I was left with a curly bob and was absolutely in love with his work! But of course, that wasn’t the end of this adventure. I was also convinced to let him straighten my hair. I hadn’t put heat on my hair in many months, and anyone who knows me knows that I take the health of my hair very, very seriously. But, alas, Pedro worked his magic and I went from scraggly split ends to a cute curly bob to straight hair laid to the gawds. I also learned that, while most Oaxaquenos hair may not be as curly as mine, people with curly hair get treatments to straighten their hair and people with straight hair get treatments to make their hair more wavy. This is all so similar to my experiences in the U.S.

the final product

After we finished getting ready we arrived to the restaurant. (and were about 30 minutes late because of all the time we spent dressing to the nines [and waiting to catch the bus of course]) The food was absolutely delicious, Restaurante Catedral is beautiful, and the company was wonderful, as well. My house mate and I were surprised to find out that we were the only ones dressed up, but I believe it is always better to be over than under dressed. 😉

After dinner Professor Lucy joined us at Txalaparta. Unfortunately the Bachata instructor couldn’t make it that night, but we did enjoy salsa classes. At Txala we ran into some of the artists from Espacio Zapata and some of their friends, as well. I spent the night dancing to cumbia and hip-hop music among new and old friends.

Day 71: Friday, March 13

Friday!!!!! We had no assignments, no excursions, no obligations what so ever. The rainy season was beginning in Oaxaca towards the end of our trip, so it rained on and off on Friday. I spent the day walking around the streets, taking in the beauty of this city. I also began packing. Fortunately, my tummy loved Oaxaca so I had plenty of pepto-bismol and tums leftover. Also, a student that went to Oaxaca two years before me had advised that I under-pack my suitcase so that I’ll have plenty of space to bring things back. That was such great advice, because after separating things that I would be bringing home from things that I would be leaving, I was literally at the 25 kilogram weight limit for flying.

Later that night I went to Biznaga, a restaurant in El Centro, with some students from my program and their intercambios. The food was pretty good. After dinner we headed to Txalaparta. It was their anniversary so there was a cover and they gave us fun masks and balloons and stuff. The club was super crowded. Although I enjoyed spending time with friends, I still felt a bit of sadness from knowing that my last hours in Oaxaca were approaching rapidly.

Day 72: Saturday, March 14

Saturday. I finished packing. This day was so sad. I cried at the thought of having to leave Oaxaca. The gray skies and light mist that covered this usually vibrant city did nothing to help my sadness. On the bright side, I ran into Saul later that night. He definitely brought some much needed joy into my life. We went to a few bars and danced, spoke with old and new friends, and enjoyed our last few moments together (at least until I return next year). I love my friends and Oaxaca and eagerly await our reunion.

Day 73: Sunday, March 15

The departure. I headed to the airport and slept through all the flights. It was very uneventful because I was so tired. But then I finally saw my family and felt a great swelling of happiness in my heart.

My 73 adventures have ended.

a street in Oaxaca

Days 57 and 58: Study Party and Birthday Party

Day 57: Study Party

Please, do not be fooled-I am still a full-time student, taking classes, writing papers, doing homework, and all that good stuff. So I spent this Friday in a cafe writing about Emiliano Zapata’s impact on the Mexican Revolution. Zapata was known as a «revolutionary» and «southern rebel» because he fought for the rights of peasant land owners. In 1911, he spoke in Nahuatl to the people of Morelos, asking them to support his ides and counter the new Mexican government. The Zapatistas were less concerned with overthrowing the Mexican government and more concerned with land rights. Although they represented a minority opposition group during the revolution, Zapata and his followers won enough battles in the south to distract the Mexican government from their efforts in the north. Zapata was assassinated in 1919 and is remembered as a symbol of «land for the humble.» Policies aimed at agrarian reform have been inspired by him. He also inspires activists today that advocate for indigenous people’s rights and the end of Mexico’s corrupt federal government.

Today, Zapatista Army of National Liberation is a leftist group based in Chiapas, a state in southern Mexico. The group declared war against Mexico in 1994. It views the state as an enforcer of systemic discrimination and violence. After NAFTA was enacted, Zapatistas expressed their disgust with how capitalism and globalization disadvantage indigenous populations and exploit the poor. It is also well known for its beliefs in anarchy, women’s rights, and pride in indigenous heritage. Later in the quarter I will visit Espacio Zapata, an art collective that contributes to the Zapatista movement through various art forms.

That night, a friend and I ate dinner at La Gran Torta before heading to La Santisima, the microbrewery. At the microbrewery I ran into about half of the people in my program and also saw my Spanish professor on a date. Oaxaca is a pretty small city. After leaving the microbrewery a few of us walked around the Zocalo and listened to a group of teens playing instruments and singing a variety of English pop songs.

Day 58: Birthday Party

During the day I did a bunch of homework. Professor Lucy is an advocate of the work hard, play hard lifestyle. We are assigned a bunch of reading and then decompress from all of that studying in the evenings.

My friend’s birthday was today! We celebrated with her and her friends at a bar before heading to Txalaparta. At Txalaparta I ran into just about every friend I had ever made in Oaxaca! It was a great, fun night. Good dancing, good drinks, good conversation, and lots of laughing.

Days 53-56: Third and Final Course, Benito Juarez, Cinema, La Jicara

Day 53: Civilizations III

Civ III. The beginning of this course marks our last three weeks in Oaxaca. During this course we will learn about post-Revolutionary Mexico. Zapatistas. Porfirio. Kahlo. NATO. Ring any bells? Hang on tight adventurers, we’re coming to the present.

Day 54: Benito Juarez’s Home

Our first excursion of the quarter was to Benito Juarez’ home. How incredible is that?! Right in the very city that I spent 10 weeks in is the home of one of Mexico’s most revered presidents! Juarez was of Zapotec decent and is known as a symbol of Mexican identity and indigenous pride. Despite his small stature (Juarez stood at 4’6″, or 1.37m) Juarez led Mexico to defeating the French when Maximillion commanded his troops to invade, and worked to modernize the country throughout the latter half of the 19th century. His home is full of photos, writings, and other memorabilia. Most of the item descriptions were in Spanish so I am very grateful that this stop was scheduled for about we’d spent two months in Mexico.

courtyard of Benito Juarez’ home

Day 55: American Sniper

On this Wednesday I went to see American Sniper. (The cinema is BOGO free on Wednesdays.) The movie was full of action and definitely invoked a lot of emotions. However it was also heavy on the Islamophobia and good ole’ patriarchal American values. I am happy that I saw the movie with friends because for all the Bush-era propoganda I saw in those two hours or so, our friendship made up for it with laughs and warm hugs. 🙂

Day 56: La Jicara, Txala, New Friends!

Thursday means Txalaparta!!! But before Txala, I ate dinner at La Jicara. It is a restaurant/book store that is known for its very chill, yet academic vibe. The service wasn’t so great, however, and I have actually come to expect that from Mexican restaurants. Generally, the waiters and waitresses I encountered in Mexico did not seem as pressed to show up to your table every three seconds wondering if you would like more water or ketchup as American waiters do. There was an expectation that if you needed something, you would flag the waiter down. It is understood that if a patron waves their hands and makes a motion that they are signing a piece of paper, they are asking for the bill. One of my friends noted that when he went to America and did that, it was considered rude. I think there are pros and cons to my Mexican restaurant experiences. On one hand, waiters aren’t hovering over my food all night and I can enjoy my meal and conversation. On the other, if the waiter doesn’t see me and I don’t have a fork for my pasta, I’ll be waiting a bit. Also, in Mexico I had some great conversations with waiters and even made a few friends. We were able to get over the pleasantries quickly and begin having real conversations.

After dinner I headed to Txala for bachata lessons! But, sadly, the beautiful Bachata teacher was unable to attend classes that night and they were canceled. I was bummed until I caught up with my friends and met some new people. It was so much fun to talk and dance the night away. At one point we were about ready to leave the club, but the DJ came out of nowhere with ‘Lip Gloss’ by Lil Mama, so obviously we had to stay for at least one more song. We danced the night away and had a great time.

chillin at Txala

Days 46-52: Mexico City! part 5/6

Day 50: The Illustrious Frida Kahlo’s House

Friday, February 20, 2015

Per usual we left for our first site at 9a.m. We spent a bit of time at Templo Mayor and its museum. Templo Mayor was a major capital in Tenochtitlan, the capital city for the Aztecs. The temple is said to be at the exact spot where Huitzilopochtli, a god of the Mexica people, placed an eagle on a nopal cactus with a snake in its mouth. This sign was how the Mexica people were to know that they had reached their promised land. Inside the museum were artifacts that had been excavated, including spear heads, jewelry, pots, pans, and other items.

We finally headed to one of the most anticipated sites of the entire study abroad quarter: Frida Kahlo’s house. Her house is located in Coyoacan. She was born in this home, lived in it, and died in it. For a few years she lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera. It is known as The Frida Kahlo Museum, or sometimes La Casa Azul, or The Blue House, for its blue facade.

the one and only Frida Kahlo’s House

The museum has a collection of work from Kahlo, her personal belongings and art that she and Rivera collected, as well as some of Rivera’s work and various pieces that have been created in her honor. There are various rooms in the house and each one has a different theme, including: some of her less popular works, her fashion, clothes inspired by her fashion, items that she used everyday, her home decor, modern art that was inspired by Kahlo, pre-Hispanic artifacts and other items that Kahlo valued, her kitchen, and her dining room. Outside is a courtyard with various structures and a screen for viewing documentaries about her life.

some of Frida Kahlo’s wardrobe on display

Frida Kahlo is very well known for her self portraits, and just about every room had one. In these portraits, and in her other works, are symbols and images that allude to some of her values. Fertility, Communism, indigenous Mexican cultures, and her health are all common themes in her paintings, dolls, home decor and even fashion.

Kahlo and Rivera hosted many people in their home, such as Leon Trotsky and other Communist thinkers, and photos from their visits are on display in the museum. Although Kahlo and Rivera shared many of the same political views, married twice, and constantly inspired and supported one another artistically, their marriage was not great. They both practiced infidelity and he was often mean and controlling. Yet they had a deeply intimate relationship and memoirs from their time together is also throughout the museum.

Her crutches and corsets, head bands, scarves, skirts, shoes and other clothing are also especially notable items on display. Having contracted polio at age six and been severely injured in a bus accident at age 18, Kahlo was left with uneven legs, the inability to give birth to children, and a lifetime of intense pain. She had to wear a brace and extra inches on one of shoes for most of her life. Kahlo used her incredible artistic ability to show her character and express herself the way she wanted to be presented, regardless of her physical condition. This is especially evident in her fashion as she used her own self as a canvas. Some of her most iconic style pieces include long skirts and scarves, corsets, floral head bands, and braided hair. Each of these items served a purpose. They highlighted some of the features she saw most prominently in herself-such as her face-and concealed her different sized shoes. The clothing had strong influences from the Tehuana culture, which she associated with her mother. A large collection of her clothing and personal belongings were released 50 years after her death, per the wishes of Rivera, and I had the opportunity to see many of the items up close and in person.

Today Kahlo is celebrated as a feminist, activist, and artist. Her biography, artistry, relationships, and political beliefs have all been heavily researched and documented. She continues to inspire people to this day and her influence is seen across a great number of artistic mediums.

“Feet, what do I need you for when I have wings to fly?” -Frida Kahlo

Friday was our last day in the city with the university. Some students headed back to Oaxaca after this evening, but I decided to stay in a hostel and explore weekends in DF. The hostel experience was an…aventura.

But before we returned to the city, we explored Coyoacan a bit more. We ate at an ice cream parlor that was absolutely superb. Every flavor had real chunks of the pastry mixed in. I had a double scoop-cheesecake and oreo with a whole Oreo to top it off. It was so delicious.

We took the metro back to the hotel. (Trying to get a not so touristy-experience by using the public transit as opposed to a taxi. Also, 5 peso transportation beats 100 peso transportation every time.) We packed up our bags and headed to the hostel.

This was my first hostel experience. There were a number of travelers from all over the world and from all ages, although most people were in their 20’s. The building had pop culture decor, with brightly colored walls and furniture and a different theme for each of the four floors. We stayed on the Teotihuacan floor (as evidenced by the giant picture of the Pyramid of the Sun and a sign, though not much else.) Our rooms looked like an Ikea college dorm spread and were very comfortable. However the bathrooms were old and communal and that freaked me out a bit (by a bit I mean a lot and by a lot I mean I am cringing as I think about it) but we only stayed two nights, so it all worked out fine.

That night we went to a club that had a reputation for being really cool and exciting. A massive dance floors, crowds of fun people, tight security, and neon lights. We were pumped! And we got there and saw that the dance floor truly was massive-and it had two floors! In fact, the dance floor was so massive that large groups of people were able to create six large circles for people to dance in in the spotlight. The lights were awesome, too. They were neon and our white pants glowed in the dark.

The music was okay. It was 70’s night so they played songs from the that era that topped various charts around the world. And the people dancing in the circles were having dance battles. The battles were actually regulated, as only two people were allowed in each circle at a time. The dancers were really getting their groove on! You could tell people were in their element, and perhaps that was because the club was filled with 50 and 60 year olds! Now that was quite the surprise. Our first Friday night in Mexico City and we couldn’t dance in the club because we would be interrupting a disco dance party from the good ol’ days. That was such a silly night, but it made for a great story and it was fun to experience something new-in Mexico City nonetheless!

After that adventure we took taxis back the the hotel. The taxis in DF are so expensive compared to the 40 or 50 peso taxis in Oaxaca. The meter started at something like 50 pesos and almost ran past 200 pesos just to go a couple of blocks! We ended up walking a bit and got back to the hostel in time to rest up for Saturday in Mexico City!

Days 46-52: Mexico City! part 4/6

Day 49: Running Up the Pyramids of Teotihuacan

Thursday, February 19, 2014

We spent all of Thursday at Teotihuacán. This gave us plenty of time to climb two pyramids, take a ton of photos, go on a tour, get lost, go to a mezcaleria, and buy souvenirs. Teotihuacán is huge, old, and hot. And for these very reasons and more it is one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the world.

The city was constructed around 100 B.C. and destroyed around the 7th or 8th century A.D. Many theories surround its collapse, but we do know that its destruction began around the Avenue of the Dead. As we walked along that part of the site, the reasoning behind its name (given by the Aztecs who found the site later on) became evident. The walk was long and completely separate from any shade, rest area, or water source. Tombs lined each side of the pathway. As we know, tombs were placed under pyramids, so the structures that were there destroyed were grand and held great significance for the people of Teotihuacan. At its peak, in 450 A.D., the city was home to around 125,000 people and was the largest Mesoamerican city we know of. So there were a lot of pyramids, a lot of tombs, and a lot of walking along that avenue.

During the tour we saw many of the things that we learned about in class. Walking across Teotihuacan, we noticed that the buildings, some of which had functioned as multi-level apartments to accommodate the city’s large population, were designed to mimic the serpent. Although generally constructed in straight lines, the levels of the walls varied so that passersby walked up and down the city, an effect that some believe was done in reverence of Quetzacoatl. The winged serpent’s temple is also in this city. It was called the Temple of the Feathered Serpent but renamed Citadel by the Spanish. This area was the religious and political center for people in the city and sat just off of the Avenue of the Dead. We climbed two pyramids at Teotihuacan. The first, Pyramid of the Sun, is one of the largest pyramids in the world, standing at 75 meters high and about 220 meters wide. It is located in the center of the city, and from its peak we saw a great view of Teotihuacan and Mexico City. Pyramid of the Moon is the second largest structure in Teotihuacan, and its purpose was for people to worship The Great Goddess. She is the mother of all creation and all life, including water and the earth. The climb up this mountain was significantly less strenuous, however we still got a great workout! All of the pyramids that we climbed have narrow, yet long and steep steps. Despite that fact that I am 5’8″, or 1.73 meters, and have quite long legs, each climb was a fun challenge. We know that people two thousand years ago were generally much shorter than people of today, so I am not quite sure who had to climb those pyramids and how often, but I am certain that they were in better shape than me!

climbed that.

At the end of the tour we ended up at a mezcaleria. No one is quite sure why our tour guide took us there since it was off of the Teotihuacan site, but there we were. I enjoyed it. At one point a couple of us got lost in Teotihuacan. We got distracted buying jewelry from vendors, and despite how ginormous the city is, the beautiful bracelet I got was worth it in my opinion. About 30 minutes later we caught up with the group and headed back to the hotel.

We passed a botanical garden that day. The gate was decorated with kids’ artwork. Most of the artists were under 12 years old, but their talent was incredible!

After a long day of exploring Teotihuacan we were exhausted, tan, and hungry (despite being filled with new knowledge and irreplaceable life experiences 😀 ). Mexico City has a Korea Town so some of us headed there for dinner. We took the metro there, which cost 5 pesos each way. Their Korea Town looked like a typical extension of the city until we started seeing signs in Korean and heard people speaking the language. A few restaurants along a block served Korean food. The menu was written in Korean with Spanish translations. We ordered a variety of meats to share among the table and dip in various sauces, along with a few soups. It was so delicious! My stomach has been so pleased with my experience in Mexico.

We headed back to the hotel on the metro and prepared for our final days of tours in the city.

Days 43-45: Work and Play

Per usual, we did not have classes on Friday. This was Week VI and we concluded our second course. That weekend I worked on my final essay, spent time with friends, and prepared for our week-long excursion to Mexico City.

I made new friends this weekend! One of the people I met at a birthday party earlier in the quarter invited my friends and I out to a bar and he brought along some of his friends, his friends’ friends, etc. We conversed in Spanish mostly. My language skills are definitely improving, however slang is still difficult. I’m not too pressed to learn curse words though.

At the first bar my friends and I tore the dance floor up! Most people sang loudly along with the song, but we let our 1, 2 step do the talking. In the bars I have been to so far, and also on the radio, it is common for American pop songs, Mexican pop songs, and Mexican ballads to be played consecutively. Check out this radio station that plays a variety of music in Oaxaca: http://www.beat1009.com.mx/beat/.

good times with nice people 🙂 

In addition to diverse music, the Oaxacan radio also has a lot of commercials. And typically competing stations will play their commercials or their music at the same time. It is also common for competing stations to play the same type of music at the same time. This isn’t too bad-I have my choice of «Chandelier» «Uptown Funk» and «Sugar» a few times a day. On Sunday nights, the radio stations stop playing music and instead feature students that talk about various issues.

That Saturday was Valentine’s Day, or Dia de San Valentin. Many buildings, and most restaurants, were decorated with red, pink, and white flowers or balloons. Some places gave out flowers to girls that entered the building. Roses were sold throughout the streets. Love was in the air and I loved every second of it!

Sunday was the day before we left for D.F., La Ciudad de Mexico, Distrito Federal. I packed and prepared for our week in Mexico!

Day 42: Capulálpam, Bachata

La Iglesia

The last Thursday of our second class we took an impromptu excursion to Capulálpam instead of class! This town is described as an area in the mountains that practices magical healing. Many businesses that practice healing ceremonies are run by indigenous peoples and blend Mesoamerican and Catholic rituals. We also visited a church and trout farm.

a view of the church from the courtyard

The first order of business for the day was to visit a church. (Try to hide your surprise here lol) This church, completed in the 17th century, is known for its many altars, many of which come from various parts of Mexico. Variations in the construction of the altars, as well as in the saints and figures that are represented in the altars, offer insights into the regional diversity throughout Mexico. The figures, mostly saints, that are in the altars usually speak to the history and value of different areas. For example, the story of Santa Lucia tells of a woman whose eyes were so beautiful that every man wanted her hand in marriage. However, she wanted to devote her entire life to Christ. She ripped out her eyes so that no man could see their beauty and she could be free to pursue a life completely dedicated to her faith. Santa Lucia del Camino is a municipality in the state of Oaxaca. Her image is present in nearly all of the churches we have visited either as a statue, in an altar, or in a painting. Standing in front of the church, I saw a phenomenal view of the sky that truly left me in awe.

view from the door of the church-Hi classmates!!!

La Limpia y masaje

After visiting the church, we went to a part of the town known for its limpias. Limpias are healing rituals that focus on cleaning the mind, body, and spirit. The cudanera, or woman that performs the healing, also has the ability to capture bad energies through the ceremony.

I walked into the room for my limpia and noticed an altar, a small, hard bed, and la cudanera. She spoke to me in Spanish, instructing me to sit down on the bed. I sat down and she asked me questions about my studies. Then she took an egg, dipped it in water, and rubbed it over my body while saying something I could not understand. This caught me off guard. But it was a hot day and I appreciated the coolness of the egg. Then, she gathered some branches and herbs with a strong aroma and brushed them over my body. Again, I was caught off guard. Finally, she cracked the egg and put the yolk in a cup of water, and identified about six air bubbles that the yolk and water created. From this, la cudanera told me that they signify jealous people in my life. She said that I have a good energy, but there are many individuals who wish ill upon me in my environment. After offering a prayer in the direction of the cross on the altar and then saying a prayer over me as well, la cudanera dismissed me and swept the floor of debris from the branches and herbs in preparation for the next person.

la limpia building

Many people in my program also got limpias and it turns out that we all had the same reading!

Next, I got a massage. The masseuse led me to a different small room with two twin beds, a large chest, and many blankets and massage lotions and oil. I was instructed to lay on the bed as she massaged my body with rose oil. (The rose oil was used quite liberally and I probably could have slid down la cierra if I tried after those 45 minutes!) The masseuse identified a dislocated bone in my left pinky finger that I had never felt before, but that does not bother me at all. She also noticed that we had been walking a lot in Oaxaca, due to the tightness of my calves. The massage itself was pretty standard, but it was cool to communicate in Spanish!

inside the healing center

La Tirolesa y las truchas

We ended our trip in Capulálpam at a restaurant high in the mountains with a trout farm, caves, and zip lining!!! The view was absolutely incredible, per usual. There was also a large, old bridge that mirrored pretty much any bridge in an old time fantasy story. The trout was delicious and oh so fresh! But the zipling. I went zipling! It was awesome! We put on our harnesses and then huffed and puffed climbed up the mountain for about 10 meters. I was connected to the zipline, given  a good push, and then soared from the tip of the mountain, past the bridge, through some trees, and over a river onto the platform on the opposite side. This was my first time using la tirolesa and it was the perfect speed, length, height, everything to ensure that I had a great time! This was by far the greatest excursion so far, in my opinion.

ZIPLINING!!!

the trout-filled river

Bachata

That evening I attended bachata classes at a local club. Our instructor taught in the Dominican style, which can be characterized by faster movements and footwork. Most of the people in the class only spoke Spanish and ages ranged from 18 to about 50. I really enjoyed meeting new people and learning a few Bachata steps. Some of the most famous Bachata artists are Prince Royce and Aventura. I linked two of their most popular songs/my favorites. The music is great, the dancing is fun, and these two song birds are also quite easy on the eyes… Check out some of their work!

Days 39-41: More Tule, Tlacochahuaya, and Mezcal Distillery

Day 39

Monday is four peso wing night at McCarthy’s. So that was my evening…

Day 40: More Tule, Tlacochahuaya and Mezcal Distillery

Tlacochahuaya is a town in Oaxaca near Tule, the widest tree in Oaxaca that I visited a few weeks ago. We stopped by Tule for a bit because it’s so close to the town, but then spent a bit of time exploring Tlacochahuaya.

Tule

This town was evangelized by Dominicans following the Spanish conquest so themes from Dominican, Zapotec, and Spanish cultures are evident in the main cathedral, which we toured on Tuesday. It was finished in the 16th century. The convent is very colorful-from the tile floor to the painted walls and decorated ceiling. The flower patterns at this sight were similar to those that I saw at Preciosa Sangre de Cristo. The great majority of the convent’s original artwork remained. In recent years protective paint was has been put over the walls and painting to preserve the artistry for centuries to come.

Tlacochahuaya

There is an organ from the 18th century upstairs. We were able to view how people played the instrument 300 years ago, and we also saw the view of the building from the balcony. The images on the ceiling, colorful, ornate, and full of heavenly symbolism, dominate the view, and it is truly spectacular. Looking more closely at these murals, I saw tiny details such as facial expressions and flower petals. As I looked out beyond the ceiling and towards the podium, and then the pews, I saw organized, yet chaotic masses of colors and shapes. Many crosses, images of saints, virgins, and Jesus flowed beautifully into beautiful groupings of flowers. In the midst of so much chaos -seemingly countless colors, symbols, and figures-I was in awe.

Tlacochahuaya

After a few moments spent in silent appreciation of the artistry that contributed to the construction of this convent, we headed down the stairs and to the next portion of our trip.

Tlacochahuaya

The Mezcal distillery was near Mitla. Mezcal is a Oaxacan specialty. It is made from 100% agave (if made properly) and differs from tequila, which is made from a specific type of agave. Tequila can also be mass-produced, whereas mezcal distillers pride themselves in the TLC that goes into every bottle. We saw the horse that pushes the object to crush the agave, called a tahona, the stove that the mezcal is cooked on, and the area where it is held to ferment for days or weeks before consumption. Mezcal has a smoky taste which is due to it being baked underground. Tapetes, aprons, and cathedrals feature Mexican artwork, but mezcal artisans carry a certain air of excellence to them that I have yet to see matched in the state of Oaxaca…

Mezcal distillery-tahona The horse pulls the wheel, which crushes the agave

The group taste-tested about 10-20 different mezcal flavors. There were a wide variety of white, brandy-colored, and cream-based flavors. I sat right across from my professor and made about 12 toasts before we decided to call it quits. Let’s just say that Tuesday was particularly exciting.

Mezcal distillery

The ride back to Oaxaca was pretty quick. We ate comida, took a nap, and did some work before heading out to dinner. Professor DeArmas told us about a place with great pancakes near ICO, so of course we went there. The pancakes were mediocre, but our french toast was sugar drizzled in cinnamon and sugar topped with strawberries and sugar and ice cream. Post-sugar high, I slept like a baby.

Mezcal distillery-chapulines as an appetizer and naranjas for post-mezcal comfort

Day 41: Just Another Day in Paradise

I woke up, wrote for my blog under some palm trees, went to class, came back and ate comida, blogged some more, went to dinner, and now I’m here. Oaxaca, me caye bien.

Day 38: Tlacolula Market

Markets have been a staple of Oaxaca for centuries. The state is known around the world for its diverse and incredible markets. So don’t think you could get by without hearing about at least ten since I’ll be here for two and a half months. At least one a week sounds about right, don’t ya think?

Tlacolula is about half an hour outside of the city. It’s one of Oaxaca’s largest markets and looked like a mix of all the markets I have been to so far. There were hand made items such as tapetes, dresses, aprons, wooden kitchen utensils, jewelry, paintings, and art. Large portions of the market sold chicks, roosters, and turkeys. Many were still alive. Doesn’t get any fresher than that. Other stands sold cooked food and sweets such as tacos and flan. While walking through the market, we were approached at least a dozen times by people selling handmade wooden bookmarks, combs, and other painted crafts. Giant, colorful hammocks were also on sale. (Hammocks are common in Oaxaca. The word ‘hammock’ origininated in Mesoamerica and was adopted into Spanish.) Similar to El Lleno market, some booths had items such as dolls and clothing that was bought in bulk from a foreign manufacturer. There were less all natural health and wellness products than in San Augustin, but there still were some home remedies for sale, most notably cures for cataracts.

Venders came from all over Oaxaca to sell their goods. This was evident in the variety of dress among women, the languages spoken, and also the patterns in the tapetes and aprons. I heard Spanish, English, Nahuatl, and Zapotec spoken in Tlacolula. As I mentioned before, serpents, mountains, and colors have ancient symbolic meaning for indigenous people in Oaxaca.  Patterns and colors relating to these ancient symbols can still be found in tapetes today, and bright colors characterize many of the aprons sold in Oaxacan markets.

The market was ginormous so we spent hours checking out the work of various artisans.

Day 37: Horseback Riding and New Friends

Three girls from my program and I went horseback riding in Latuvi on Saturday! Latuvi is a town about an hour and a half outside of the city. We drove through the mountains (per usual at this point) and were happy to learn that the intense twists and turns the driver warned us about were nothing in a van as compared to a giant bus. The stable has five horses for guided tours. We got to choose which one to ride. I chose a dark brown horse with a black tail named Negro.

d’awww!

More than ten years ago I rode a horse with my Girl Scouts troop. We were in an enclosed area and walked in a circle for a little while, I’m pretty sure we fed them hay from our hands, as well. It was a very fun, exciting, and calm experience.

Horseback riding in Latuvi was nothing like that.

The horses seemed a lot bigger when I was in elementary school, but I could clearly see over the horses during this trip. That frightened me. I was scared that the horses weren’t big enough to safely carry us through the mountains! After lots of encouraging words from friends and the stable owners, in both Spanish and English, and a few woosahhs, I finally got on the horse. Before heading towards the trail we took many cute pictures, and then our journey began!

horseback riding in Latuvi! at the stable

Riding the horses through the mountain trail scared most of us at first and the horses reacted to our tension by not responding to the ‘vamos’ or ‘alto’ commands. My horse didn’t like the feeling of the saddle and constantly stopped to stretch his legs. Carlos, one of the men that works at the stable and is in charge of breaking in the horses, guided two of our horses. That was very helpful. By taking our focus off of navigating the horses, we could work on finding a comfortable seating position, admiring the view, asking Carlos lots of questions about his experiences working with horses, and taking selfies. We rode for about 45 minutes to an hour, passing other farms, goats, and horses. Branches of a river ran through the land. We looked up and saw a clear blue sky. To the left and right were cacti, trees, bushes, and vegetation in all stages of life. Eventually, we arrived at a part of the trail that would lead us down the mountain to a waterfall.

passed this on our way to the waterfall while climbing the mountain in Latuvi

Negro and his friends were left on the mountain trail because the route to the waterfall was not fit for a horse…no if, and, buts about it. leaves fell off of the trees and made the dirt path slippery. The trees and bushes were not cut so we were truly one with nature as we climbed, slipped, and slided down the steep mountain path. Twice we crossed streams of water by hopping over rocks. Thrice we crossed logs to get to the other side of the path. At one point Carlos stopped to refill his water bottle from the water that ran through the mountain. It was the same water that was purified and bottled into what we drank that day.

passed this on our way to the waterfall while climbing the mountain in Latuvi

About 30 minutes later, the sound of water rushing quickly through layers of smooth rocks was heard. The gang and I sat on rocks just a few meters from the water and took in the view. Although this was called a waterfall, it was actually many streams of water than ran through a series of oddly placed rocks. (Placed by nature, of course.) The force of the water caused erosion and some of the rocks had notable shapes, especially one rock that literally had a large hole eroded right into its core.

the waterfall-like stream

The journey back to the paved mountain path was quicker and smoother, though equally slippery. Our horses were waiting next to giant lumps of fertilizer that they crafted while we were gone. Getting on the horses this time was much easier. It seemed as though all of our fears lessened and the horses were calmer. They responded to ‘vamos’ and ‘alto’ more readily than before. Many times the horses walked right on the edge of the path, which overlooked rocks and branches multiple feet down. One horse, named Chapuline, was very adamant about being first in line and would bite others when they tried to walk ahead of him. I felt more confident about riding and guided Negro without Carlos’ help on the way back. By the time we arrived at the stable it was time for comida. I think comida came at the perfect time. Negro and I had bonded just the perfect amount and we both were ready for food.

The stable is owned by a family so we ate a home-cooked meal for comida. Jamaica, potato and vegetable soup, a delicious meat, salad, and a banana for desert. Que rico!

On the drive back to Oaxaca we stopped by McDonald’s. It was a bit pricey compared to how affordable McDonald’s is in The States, but it was still a taste of home and quite tasty.

That night I went to a house party with my host sister and her intercambio. People shouted, «respect the mezcal,» as they sipped the drink and complimented its potency. Mezcal is a popular Oaxacan drink made from agave. (A few days later I went to a mezcal distillery where we learned how the drink is made. Look out for that post soon!) We went to a nearby restaurant and ate tacos with a girl we met at the party. She only spoke Spanish and we were able to communicate just fine. Our language skills are improving!

It wouldn’t be a weekend in Oaxaca if we didn’t end at least one night at Txalaparta. So we ended the night with a few dances at Txalaparta before passing out for a few hours before our trip to Tlacolula the next morning. Guess what?

Tlacolula is a market. Surprise!