Days 70-73: The Finale

Day 70: Thursday, March 12

Our final day of classes. Saying good-bye to ICO was definitely tear-jerking, but I am comforted in knowing that I will return someday.

That night my program had our final good-bye dinner at the beautiful Restaurante Catedral. My housemate and I were so excited about this semi-formal group event that we spent a good chunk of time prepping out hair, makeup, and outfits.

Speaking of hair, I got mine done in Oaxaca on this day! My ends were in need of some trimming, but I was afraid to let a hairstylist other than someone my mom suggested touch my hair. I was also worried that the hairstylists wouldn’t be used to dealing with hair as curly as mine. Most of the Oaxaquenos I met had very straight or nearly straight hair and were always so intrigued by my curls. (As usual I had to explain to dozens of people that, «no, I don’t want you to pet my head or run your hands throughout my hair without my permission.») But after about 15 minutes of interrogating my host mom, she finally convinced me to let Pedro trim my ends. She drove me to his salon, just a few blocks from her house, and Pedro and his assistant got to work. They washed and cut my hair, then convinced me to let him shape my hair as well. I was left with a curly bob and was absolutely in love with his work! But of course, that wasn’t the end of this adventure. I was also convinced to let him straighten my hair. I hadn’t put heat on my hair in many months, and anyone who knows me knows that I take the health of my hair very, very seriously. But, alas, Pedro worked his magic and I went from scraggly split ends to a cute curly bob to straight hair laid to the gawds. I also learned that, while most Oaxaquenos hair may not be as curly as mine, people with curly hair get treatments to straighten their hair and people with straight hair get treatments to make their hair more wavy. This is all so similar to my experiences in the U.S.

the final product

After we finished getting ready we arrived to the restaurant. (and were about 30 minutes late because of all the time we spent dressing to the nines [and waiting to catch the bus of course]) The food was absolutely delicious, Restaurante Catedral is beautiful, and the company was wonderful, as well. My house mate and I were surprised to find out that we were the only ones dressed up, but I believe it is always better to be over than under dressed. 😉

After dinner Professor Lucy joined us at Txalaparta. Unfortunately the Bachata instructor couldn’t make it that night, but we did enjoy salsa classes. At Txala we ran into some of the artists from Espacio Zapata and some of their friends, as well. I spent the night dancing to cumbia and hip-hop music among new and old friends.

Day 71: Friday, March 13

Friday!!!!! We had no assignments, no excursions, no obligations what so ever. The rainy season was beginning in Oaxaca towards the end of our trip, so it rained on and off on Friday. I spent the day walking around the streets, taking in the beauty of this city. I also began packing. Fortunately, my tummy loved Oaxaca so I had plenty of pepto-bismol and tums leftover. Also, a student that went to Oaxaca two years before me had advised that I under-pack my suitcase so that I’ll have plenty of space to bring things back. That was such great advice, because after separating things that I would be bringing home from things that I would be leaving, I was literally at the 25 kilogram weight limit for flying.

Later that night I went to Biznaga, a restaurant in El Centro, with some students from my program and their intercambios. The food was pretty good. After dinner we headed to Txalaparta. It was their anniversary so there was a cover and they gave us fun masks and balloons and stuff. The club was super crowded. Although I enjoyed spending time with friends, I still felt a bit of sadness from knowing that my last hours in Oaxaca were approaching rapidly.

Day 72: Saturday, March 14

Saturday. I finished packing. This day was so sad. I cried at the thought of having to leave Oaxaca. The gray skies and light mist that covered this usually vibrant city did nothing to help my sadness. On the bright side, I ran into Saul later that night. He definitely brought some much needed joy into my life. We went to a few bars and danced, spoke with old and new friends, and enjoyed our last few moments together (at least until I return next year). I love my friends and Oaxaca and eagerly await our reunion.

Day 73: Sunday, March 15

The departure. I headed to the airport and slept through all the flights. It was very uneventful because I was so tired. But then I finally saw my family and felt a great swelling of happiness in my heart.

My 73 adventures have ended.

a street in Oaxaca

Days 57 and 58: Study Party and Birthday Party

Day 57: Study Party

Please, do not be fooled-I am still a full-time student, taking classes, writing papers, doing homework, and all that good stuff. So I spent this Friday in a cafe writing about Emiliano Zapata’s impact on the Mexican Revolution. Zapata was known as a «revolutionary» and «southern rebel» because he fought for the rights of peasant land owners. In 1911, he spoke in Nahuatl to the people of Morelos, asking them to support his ides and counter the new Mexican government. The Zapatistas were less concerned with overthrowing the Mexican government and more concerned with land rights. Although they represented a minority opposition group during the revolution, Zapata and his followers won enough battles in the south to distract the Mexican government from their efforts in the north. Zapata was assassinated in 1919 and is remembered as a symbol of «land for the humble.» Policies aimed at agrarian reform have been inspired by him. He also inspires activists today that advocate for indigenous people’s rights and the end of Mexico’s corrupt federal government.

Today, Zapatista Army of National Liberation is a leftist group based in Chiapas, a state in southern Mexico. The group declared war against Mexico in 1994. It views the state as an enforcer of systemic discrimination and violence. After NAFTA was enacted, Zapatistas expressed their disgust with how capitalism and globalization disadvantage indigenous populations and exploit the poor. It is also well known for its beliefs in anarchy, women’s rights, and pride in indigenous heritage. Later in the quarter I will visit Espacio Zapata, an art collective that contributes to the Zapatista movement through various art forms.

That night, a friend and I ate dinner at La Gran Torta before heading to La Santisima, the microbrewery. At the microbrewery I ran into about half of the people in my program and also saw my Spanish professor on a date. Oaxaca is a pretty small city. After leaving the microbrewery a few of us walked around the Zocalo and listened to a group of teens playing instruments and singing a variety of English pop songs.

Day 58: Birthday Party

During the day I did a bunch of homework. Professor Lucy is an advocate of the work hard, play hard lifestyle. We are assigned a bunch of reading and then decompress from all of that studying in the evenings.

My friend’s birthday was today! We celebrated with her and her friends at a bar before heading to Txalaparta. At Txalaparta I ran into just about every friend I had ever made in Oaxaca! It was a great, fun night. Good dancing, good drinks, good conversation, and lots of laughing.

Day 42: Capulálpam, Bachata

La Iglesia

The last Thursday of our second class we took an impromptu excursion to Capulálpam instead of class! This town is described as an area in the mountains that practices magical healing. Many businesses that practice healing ceremonies are run by indigenous peoples and blend Mesoamerican and Catholic rituals. We also visited a church and trout farm.

a view of the church from the courtyard

The first order of business for the day was to visit a church. (Try to hide your surprise here lol) This church, completed in the 17th century, is known for its many altars, many of which come from various parts of Mexico. Variations in the construction of the altars, as well as in the saints and figures that are represented in the altars, offer insights into the regional diversity throughout Mexico. The figures, mostly saints, that are in the altars usually speak to the history and value of different areas. For example, the story of Santa Lucia tells of a woman whose eyes were so beautiful that every man wanted her hand in marriage. However, she wanted to devote her entire life to Christ. She ripped out her eyes so that no man could see their beauty and she could be free to pursue a life completely dedicated to her faith. Santa Lucia del Camino is a municipality in the state of Oaxaca. Her image is present in nearly all of the churches we have visited either as a statue, in an altar, or in a painting. Standing in front of the church, I saw a phenomenal view of the sky that truly left me in awe.

view from the door of the church-Hi classmates!!!

La Limpia y masaje

After visiting the church, we went to a part of the town known for its limpias. Limpias are healing rituals that focus on cleaning the mind, body, and spirit. The cudanera, or woman that performs the healing, also has the ability to capture bad energies through the ceremony.

I walked into the room for my limpia and noticed an altar, a small, hard bed, and la cudanera. She spoke to me in Spanish, instructing me to sit down on the bed. I sat down and she asked me questions about my studies. Then she took an egg, dipped it in water, and rubbed it over my body while saying something I could not understand. This caught me off guard. But it was a hot day and I appreciated the coolness of the egg. Then, she gathered some branches and herbs with a strong aroma and brushed them over my body. Again, I was caught off guard. Finally, she cracked the egg and put the yolk in a cup of water, and identified about six air bubbles that the yolk and water created. From this, la cudanera told me that they signify jealous people in my life. She said that I have a good energy, but there are many individuals who wish ill upon me in my environment. After offering a prayer in the direction of the cross on the altar and then saying a prayer over me as well, la cudanera dismissed me and swept the floor of debris from the branches and herbs in preparation for the next person.

la limpia building

Many people in my program also got limpias and it turns out that we all had the same reading!

Next, I got a massage. The masseuse led me to a different small room with two twin beds, a large chest, and many blankets and massage lotions and oil. I was instructed to lay on the bed as she massaged my body with rose oil. (The rose oil was used quite liberally and I probably could have slid down la cierra if I tried after those 45 minutes!) The masseuse identified a dislocated bone in my left pinky finger that I had never felt before, but that does not bother me at all. She also noticed that we had been walking a lot in Oaxaca, due to the tightness of my calves. The massage itself was pretty standard, but it was cool to communicate in Spanish!

inside the healing center

La Tirolesa y las truchas

We ended our trip in Capulálpam at a restaurant high in the mountains with a trout farm, caves, and zip lining!!! The view was absolutely incredible, per usual. There was also a large, old bridge that mirrored pretty much any bridge in an old time fantasy story. The trout was delicious and oh so fresh! But the zipling. I went zipling! It was awesome! We put on our harnesses and then huffed and puffed climbed up the mountain for about 10 meters. I was connected to the zipline, given  a good push, and then soared from the tip of the mountain, past the bridge, through some trees, and over a river onto the platform on the opposite side. This was my first time using la tirolesa and it was the perfect speed, length, height, everything to ensure that I had a great time! This was by far the greatest excursion so far, in my opinion.

ZIPLINING!!!

the trout-filled river

Bachata

That evening I attended bachata classes at a local club. Our instructor taught in the Dominican style, which can be characterized by faster movements and footwork. Most of the people in the class only spoke Spanish and ages ranged from 18 to about 50. I really enjoyed meeting new people and learning a few Bachata steps. Some of the most famous Bachata artists are Prince Royce and Aventura. I linked two of their most popular songs/my favorites. The music is great, the dancing is fun, and these two song birds are also quite easy on the eyes… Check out some of their work!

Day 37: Horseback Riding and New Friends

Three girls from my program and I went horseback riding in Latuvi on Saturday! Latuvi is a town about an hour and a half outside of the city. We drove through the mountains (per usual at this point) and were happy to learn that the intense twists and turns the driver warned us about were nothing in a van as compared to a giant bus. The stable has five horses for guided tours. We got to choose which one to ride. I chose a dark brown horse with a black tail named Negro.

d’awww!

More than ten years ago I rode a horse with my Girl Scouts troop. We were in an enclosed area and walked in a circle for a little while, I’m pretty sure we fed them hay from our hands, as well. It was a very fun, exciting, and calm experience.

Horseback riding in Latuvi was nothing like that.

The horses seemed a lot bigger when I was in elementary school, but I could clearly see over the horses during this trip. That frightened me. I was scared that the horses weren’t big enough to safely carry us through the mountains! After lots of encouraging words from friends and the stable owners, in both Spanish and English, and a few woosahhs, I finally got on the horse. Before heading towards the trail we took many cute pictures, and then our journey began!

horseback riding in Latuvi! at the stable

Riding the horses through the mountain trail scared most of us at first and the horses reacted to our tension by not responding to the ‘vamos’ or ‘alto’ commands. My horse didn’t like the feeling of the saddle and constantly stopped to stretch his legs. Carlos, one of the men that works at the stable and is in charge of breaking in the horses, guided two of our horses. That was very helpful. By taking our focus off of navigating the horses, we could work on finding a comfortable seating position, admiring the view, asking Carlos lots of questions about his experiences working with horses, and taking selfies. We rode for about 45 minutes to an hour, passing other farms, goats, and horses. Branches of a river ran through the land. We looked up and saw a clear blue sky. To the left and right were cacti, trees, bushes, and vegetation in all stages of life. Eventually, we arrived at a part of the trail that would lead us down the mountain to a waterfall.

passed this on our way to the waterfall while climbing the mountain in Latuvi

Negro and his friends were left on the mountain trail because the route to the waterfall was not fit for a horse…no if, and, buts about it. leaves fell off of the trees and made the dirt path slippery. The trees and bushes were not cut so we were truly one with nature as we climbed, slipped, and slided down the steep mountain path. Twice we crossed streams of water by hopping over rocks. Thrice we crossed logs to get to the other side of the path. At one point Carlos stopped to refill his water bottle from the water that ran through the mountain. It was the same water that was purified and bottled into what we drank that day.

passed this on our way to the waterfall while climbing the mountain in Latuvi

About 30 minutes later, the sound of water rushing quickly through layers of smooth rocks was heard. The gang and I sat on rocks just a few meters from the water and took in the view. Although this was called a waterfall, it was actually many streams of water than ran through a series of oddly placed rocks. (Placed by nature, of course.) The force of the water caused erosion and some of the rocks had notable shapes, especially one rock that literally had a large hole eroded right into its core.

the waterfall-like stream

The journey back to the paved mountain path was quicker and smoother, though equally slippery. Our horses were waiting next to giant lumps of fertilizer that they crafted while we were gone. Getting on the horses this time was much easier. It seemed as though all of our fears lessened and the horses were calmer. They responded to ‘vamos’ and ‘alto’ more readily than before. Many times the horses walked right on the edge of the path, which overlooked rocks and branches multiple feet down. One horse, named Chapuline, was very adamant about being first in line and would bite others when they tried to walk ahead of him. I felt more confident about riding and guided Negro without Carlos’ help on the way back. By the time we arrived at the stable it was time for comida. I think comida came at the perfect time. Negro and I had bonded just the perfect amount and we both were ready for food.

The stable is owned by a family so we ate a home-cooked meal for comida. Jamaica, potato and vegetable soup, a delicious meat, salad, and a banana for desert. Que rico!

On the drive back to Oaxaca we stopped by McDonald’s. It was a bit pricey compared to how affordable McDonald’s is in The States, but it was still a taste of home and quite tasty.

That night I went to a house party with my host sister and her intercambio. People shouted, «respect the mezcal,» as they sipped the drink and complimented its potency. Mezcal is a popular Oaxacan drink made from agave. (A few days later I went to a mezcal distillery where we learned how the drink is made. Look out for that post soon!) We went to a nearby restaurant and ate tacos with a girl we met at the party. She only spoke Spanish and we were able to communicate just fine. Our language skills are improving!

It wouldn’t be a weekend in Oaxaca if we didn’t end at least one night at Txalaparta. So we ended the night with a few dances at Txalaparta before passing out for a few hours before our trip to Tlacolula the next morning. Guess what?

Tlacolula is a market. Surprise!