Day 30: En Via Tour: Teotitlan and San Miguel

Teotitlan del Valle

I went on a tour with Fundacion En Via on January 31. We visited the towns of Teotitlan and San Miguel and met with six women that work with EnVia. Teotitlan is well known for its weavings. Many families have their own looms and create tapetes, or rugs, in their home to sell at markets. The wool is bought in the city and dyed by hand using various vegetables, fruits, and other natural products. Cochineal, the cluster of white bugs that are found on cacti and squeezed to produce a red color, are used for red dye. The skin of pomegranate makes a yellow color, indigo creates blue, and beans and other plants are also used. One of the women in Teotitlan told us that varying shades and colors are made by mixing two or more plants together.

Teotitlan operates under the ‘usos y costmbres’ form of governance. This literally translates into ‘uses and customs.’ 418 of Oaxaca’s 570 municipalities follow usos y costumbres. Community members govern their own municipality, where all territory’s duties are divided among the people that live there. Duties are rotated among the different community members and everyone is held accountable for participating in the well being of the municipality-even if that means getting on a plane and returning to Teotitlan to complete your assigned duties. (I was told that this has happened before.) It is no coincidence that about 2/3 of Oaxaca’s municipalities follow usos y costumbres because this form of governance is meant to grant increased autonomy to Mexico’s indigenous populations. Teotitlan del Valle is a Zapotec municipality and most people speak Zapotec and Spanish.

The integration of Zapotec and Spanish traditions in Teotitlan is very evident in Preciosa Sangre de Cristo, the municipality’s main cathedral. The cathedral’s architecture is inspired by Quetzacoatl, a winged serpent that dominates many Zapotec narratives. Quetzacoatl has three feathers on his head. If a person tries to pick a feather from the serpent, the color of the feather chosen determines their fate. Red symbolizes immediate death; blue symbolizes poverty, and yellow symbolizes health.

Preciosa Sangre de Cristo-Teotitlan del Valle

The cathedral was built over a Zapotec temple.  The Zapotecs built their temple at this location because it is believed that Quetzacoatl traveled through the mountain overlooking the land, continued traveling underground, and resurfaced at the sight of the cathedral. Today people believe that Quetzacoatl lives under the church. The winged serpent guards priceless gold, jewels, and other treasures. But, whoever manages to find this hidden treasure will be trapped in the room forever and will never be seen again. Many people in Teo know a person who knows a person who knows a person that has found the treasures and lived to tell the tale.

Preciosa Sangre de Cristo was built between late 1500s and the early 1700s. As the indigenous populations of Teo regained some autonomy over their own land throughout this time, they were able to incorporate some stones from the original temple that stood at the site of the current cathedral. Preciosa Sangre de Cristo also has images of biblical figures with physical features, such as skin color, that resemble those of the Zapotecs more so than those of the Europeans.

original stones from Zapotec temple incorporated into the Spanish cathedral

One of the most esteemed duties for the people of Teotitlan, assigned under usos y costumbres, is to be a caretaker of the church. These people keep the grounds clean, enforce responsible tourism, and decorate the church for various celebrations. During my visit, the last days of the Christmas celebration took place. The cathedral was decorated with colorful fresh flowers and candles.

flowers and candles, decorations for Christmas celebration

San Miguel

San Miguel is another municipality that also governs through usos y costumbres. Nahuatl is the first language of the region, and people learn Spanish in school. This area is also known for its weavings, though many people buy their wool from Teotitlan. Another popular trade is agriculture. Many people have live on their land with their chickens and other animals, but others have additional land outside of town.

The women and girls of San Miguel wear dresses and aprons every day. Intricate designs featuring colorful flowers, patterns, silk, and metallics characterize some of the most ornate aprons, which can take around a week to make. The aprons are hand sewn and called mandiles. Many of the women borrowers that work with Fundacion En Via sew aprons for a living.

Before heading back to Oaxaca we ate comida at the comedor of a woman that works with EnVia in San Miguel. We ate tostadas with avocados, salsa, quesillo, and frijoles for an appetizer. It was so delicious and pretty filling, but that didn’t stop us from eating tlayudas as a main course.